A note on spelling: "Aesthetic" has here been reduced to "Esthetic." I follow this convention because it is normal practice for Japanese websites. I normally pride myself on careful spelling, but as this is "tradition" I will use the Japanese spelling.

General Information

SD can be painted with a variety of products. However, NEVER use oil-based products on these dolls as the resin will stain. The following information represents my own methods...please know that other customizers will do things differently. For instance, I wait to do the lips til last because I prefer to view all the face blushing before I choose the color.

I use Liquitex acrylic paints, and these work well. Many other customizers swear by Mr. Color paints...I have yet to try these. I do the lips with acrylic paints...sometimes I do the brows with paint and other times I use colored pencil.

I do my blushing with artists chalk pastels...take the pastel and rub it on paper to create dust. Mix your color and apply to the face, taking care to blend well. I use foam makeup applicators, it works a lot better than Qtips.

Always begin with an absolutely clean surface. Wash your hands thoroughly before beginning any esthetic work. Any smudges and the Mr. Super Clear fixative may not adhere properly, leading to problems. I remove facial paint with acetone. Do not leave the acetone sitting on the doll for any amount of time! Quickly apply and wipe off the paint.

Faceups

When I do a face-up I generally follow the same order of steps:

1. Brows
2. 1st coat with Mr. Super Clear
3. Blushing
4. 2nd coat of Mr. Super Clear
5. Lips
6. Final coat of Mr. Super Clear

At this point you might like to know what Mr. Super Clear is. It is a sprayable fixative that provides a lovely coating for the doll. It provides a lasting finish for your faceup, which is pretty much required if you use pastels for blushing. It is available shiny or matte...matte is what I use because it is just fabulous and gives the SD a beautiful luminescent finish.

IMPORTANT: Mr. Super Clear is highly toxic and is not available for purchase in the United States. Always spray in a well-ventilated area and avoid contact until the spray is dried.

Other Esthetics

Other than the faceup I think that the most recognizable step to making your doll come alive is to sand and blush the body.

SD are created by pouring resin into molds. When the piece is removed from the mold, a small "seam" line will remain. Removing this seam adds to the beauty of the SD.

I sand using "sanding films" (papery sandpaper in a variety of grades, usually found in the model supplies section of craft stores). Start with a lower grade and work up to the highest to create a smooth surface. Sanding the body is a time-consuming process.

IMPORTANT: SD resin dust is toxic! Always sand outside, wear a mask, change your clothing, and wash your hands before touching pets, etc.

Once the seams are sanded I soak the doll for 30 minutes in warm water with just a dab of dish detergent. This removes all traces of dust and creates a fine surface for the remaining body work. Rinse and lay the pieces out on a lint-free surface to dry.

After all pieces have air-dried, I next coat the doll twice with Mr. Super Clear (depending on the type of doll this will take up to one full can) and then begin blushing. I blush with artists pastels, matching the body tone to the facial blush. Once finished I apply a final coat of Mr. Super Clear, concentrating on the areas that have been blushed.

My advice for body blushing is to look at your own body. Thin skin will appear more transluscent and you can see a blush where veins are visible. Think of joints :-)

OK, I hope this information has been helpful.